Evans waterless engine coolant

UNCLASSIFIED If anyone has any experience with this please e-mail the group or just to John at I have only ever heard negative views on this product. Look forward to your replies.

Ross H.: As a Stag driver from the hotter than average Griffith climate I have had no engine overheating problems with the conventional cooling system using regular coolant. I do flush the radiator and engine block yearly but have never removed any obvious gunk. I think the Stag cooling system works well with everyday coolant and would not feel the need to try a waterless product. UNCLASSIFIED Look forward to your replies.

Spiro E.: I researched this product a great deal for the "Foo" , the perceived advantages are/were many, Not only is it a coolant but Evans also promotes zero corrosion in any metals (alloy or otherwise) which remains an issue with neglected stags, Evans will not freeze at minus 20 Degrees and has hotter boiling point at 150 Degrees (or something of that nature) also Virtually no pressure is created in the cooling system when hot, ( when this product is Hot under running conditions it produces next to zero pressure in the system) so les or zero pressure leaks, zero cavitation in the pump etc etc. whilst expensive it has a ridiculous life span in Car. So the perceived advantages are not simply about does it cool or does not not, HOWEVER - the big issues with Evans is that it does not conduct (or extract head) as well as water, meaning it does not draw the heat out as well as straight water does, So I bought some and used it in the "Foo" when I first put the car on the road, and the Foo Ran hotter with the supercharger, I removed all the Evans coolant and went back to water and found it cooled much better. This may have been only with my application (supercharger etc) and Evans might be good with other stags, But this was my experience

Leon H.: That's a very good point Spiro. Water is the very best medium for heat transfer that we can put into engines. When we add anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) we are actually reducing the heat transfer capacity of the coolant, which is why you shouldn't exceed the stated ratio. My view is that the Stag engine should be run cooler rather than hotter, as the dissimilar expansion between the alloy heads and cast iron block generates more buckling stress on the heads and hence the gaskets are more prone to fail, when the engine runs hotter. Hence I would say that for Stags the Evans waterless isn't the right stuff. For many other engines that don't mind running a couple of degrees hotter it might be fine, so perhaps its "horses for courses". As an aside, I have been running an Electric Water Pump since 2010 and initially I tried to run it at 75 Deg C. One day, just about 3 kms from home, the engine appeared to overheat and the controller went into "limp home" mode at 90 Deg C. I didn't know at that time that it had a "limp home" mode so I panicked and drove home immediately. Long story short was that the engine didn't like running so cool ( design temp is 82 Deg C) so I adjusted the EWP controller to 80 Deg C and it has run perfectly well ever since.

Spiro E.: Excellent information Leon, Whilst we are on the cooling subject, can we begin a (Friendly) debate here on the water pump 6 Vane V 12 Vane water pump. I know the Stag world went crazy about the insistence of 12 Vanes, all later model Stags came out with 12vane from the factory, In my opionion (happy to hear points for and against) the 6 vane pump allows for greater volume of water I between Vanes and is curved incouraging flow The 12 vane actually has less space for water in between Vanes and vanes are flat rather than curved. I have read about the complexities of the cooling system, with things like too much flow does not allow the radiator (Head exchanger) to cool the water sufficiently and thus makes the motor run hotter, as well as spacing between the top of the pumps in the 12 vane provides for less space and thus less Any thoughts on 6v v 12v ? (this is of course for those of us who want to avoid the electric system)

Leon H.: There is no doubt that a well set up 6 vane on a known engine should run fine BUT: Many engines are old or unknown and hence the electric pump can keep them going much longer. The design of the mechanical pump is inherently flawed in many respects. The worst aspect IMHO, is that it turns so slowly at idle, whereas the electric pump turns according to the temperature of the water regardless of engine revs or road speed. Its position ( up too high relative to the radiator outlet and also mounted under the manifold) are also quite serious problems. But for originality, the mechanical pump running on an engine in good condition, should run for years without drama.

I remember reading an article some time ago, can't recall where, but it compared the relative benefits of the 6 vane vs 12 vane. The considerations from memory were similar to Spiro has listed. They concluded after various tests that the 6 vane was better from low to mid range revs and the 12 vane seemed to offer benefits only when the engine was consistently in the higher rev range. As with all these things the rest of the system probably needs a proper look at, as simply changing vanes or going electric, won't fix a system that has other issues such as lots of sediment in the block water jacket, a partially blocked radiator or some other issue.

Spiro, a much discussed topic. You would think the most effective way would be to test both in the same vehicle under the same conditions with the right probes measuring temperature and water velocity. John Yanoulis

Spiro E.: Johnno you are right But who can be bothered really, the biggest challenge with the Evans cooland is the fact that you have to remove all water from the system which is always a challenge, the evens has reduced effectiveness with any amount of water left in the system, The reason I went away from the Evans in the first place is the fact that my bores were machined with too fine a tolerance to the pistons (we suspect), and when the engine got to temperature and I shut it down, the starter would not have the power to turn the car over (Heat Jammed pistons) This was solved right away when I changed to water, however this was my application on the FOO, other stags may be different I look forward to running this experiment with your car when you get her on the road SJE

Terry R.: A good, clean well maintained engine, with no hot spots and a good water pump ( maybe an electric water pump), should be a preferred option. Corrosion is avoided by NOT neglecting a coolant change. Good coolant is cheap insurance. On the other hand, A waterless 6 cylinder engine with Lucas petrol injection and a good fuel system might benefit, as PI engines like to run a little hotter, and they are less prone to head gasket problems . Any Stags around with a 6 cyl. PI engine? But why bother with that either. Cheaper to run a hotter set of plugs , and an electric fan and an appropriately adjusted thermo switch. John Don't bother with Evans Waterless, just maintain what you have

Chris S.: If you haven't already read this report it is very convincing at damning WC products. Of particular note is the high viscosity which will load up the pump, and this in turn will put more pressure on the Stag timing chains which drive the jackshaft. A risk too far for my liking. Ref: norosion.com/evanstest.htm Proprietor, Stagweber

A Stag owner: Interesting , I chewed out my jackshaft to water pump gears within 500km on the foo, Sent on the go with Vodafone

UNCLASSIFIED Below are two e-mails. The size of our Forum has grown very well over the years. Just goes to show the interest level in these cars that are now well over 40 years old.