Soft top recondition - Big Job

Amongst the multiple full restoration tasks I have going on to keep me busy, the soft top (frame in particular) has kept me well occupied. High moisture area so rust is a given especially where the more prone sheet metal is spot welded to the iron parts of the frame and on areas where any of the factory paint/coating has moved away over the years. Found a few missing pivot bolts having been replaced with non genuine standard bolts and washers, also missing are some of the factory low profile type nuts (7/16 socket on a ¼ in UNF thread and they must be uncommon as I had no nuts in that narrow profile) and a few obligatory bends in some of the pivot bolts. This probably explains the ill fit.. I gather the specialist type pivot bolts are either a ¼ in UNF or 5/16 in UNF thread with all with a slotted bullet head. Rimmers (and I am sure many others) offer an updated version of these pivot bolts featuring a regular head for a socket or spanner which makes sense. Not a flat surface under the head as the originals; they have a slight bulge/ taper so I am not too sure if the thin factory washer that is present under the head of the original bolts is to be used? Also the Rimmers site listing seems to miss the smallest bolt - Triumph Stag Parts Catalogue, Body and Fitting - Hoodframe Assembly page 06-34 part number 627110, (2 required which screws on frame part number 714118 and 714117). 5/16 UNF thread. I ordered it and the wrong size arrived under that part number. I will email them shortly. Whilst I await the correct order I did rebend 623757 and reinstalled it for the time being. That a ¼ inch UNF. Probably easier if I had of removed and stripped the whole frame but I got a bit lazy and have attempted to restore it on the vehicle bit by bit as required which thus far seems to be going okay. After peeling back the mohair I started by removing the easiest rear hoodstick 811798 and left 811798 on the car as more attached. The rear header rail comes off easy as well. With the hoodstick that was out of the vehicle I applied paint stripper and then two coats of epoxy enamel - light sanding in between. The third (second last) hoodstick still in the car I laboriously chipped all the paint by hand on the top with a spatula and treated with a neutraliser as well and then two coats of epoxy also. I painted the vertical edges with a small brush. I will be reusing the foam and webbing with minor repairs and treating and painting the riveted caps. Any frame of this vintage would have had its fair share of surface and body rust. I don't think this design is any more rust prone. Lots of iron and quite sturdy with the sheet metal areas needing the most attention. It would probably last another 40 years untreated. Fix now as it may be harder to get parts then. I may send another email with some more detail. JY Suite [address removed], Kew East, VIC 3102

Chris S.: I have been restoring hood frames professionally for about 6 years now, and I have learnt a lot in my time. If there is anything you want advice about, please ask and I will help where I can. The original bolts often break as they have stress risers built in to the design. Please replace any that have distorted like the one you pictured, or they will break later and stray members may then damage the valuable cover. For replacements of 1/4 UNF screws I use standard 1/4 UNF screws with 1/4 x 3/8 spacers of various lengths instead of the special pattern bolts as they are stronger. I have the spacers specially made for me. The original thick washers are to be used to take up any slack so select the ones that fit without binding. Oil all pivots well, especially the front corner hinge joints than often seize up and then overstress the frame. Chris Proprietor, Stagweber www.stagweber.co.uk<stagweber.co.uk/> Mobile: 07518 534111

Thanks Chris, I have thought about using standard ¼ UNF bolts but the right diameter spacers to fit over this size bolt in an appropriate material cut to size is the key of course. If using ¼ “ UNF bolts they need to be the right shaft length/thread length combination of course. Having a look in my garage I could only find 9mm diameter (6/16”) copper tubing (odd size copper tube so must be off some sort of gas or AC appliance) that was a good fit in the frame holes (and over a 14” UNF bolt – second attachment. Curious to see what you use as it’s not that easy to find this size diameter tubing and copper may be too soft – second attachment. Also curious to know what you do with an elongated hole? Suite [address removed], Kew East, VIC 3102